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Sunday, 05 February 2012
Home Page arrow Food arrow Looking Your Food in the Face
Looking Your Food in the Face Print E-mail
Written by Jackie Gorman   
Tuesday, 30 November 2004
Recent experience of selling organic meat at various farmers markets has caused me to really think about how meat is perceived by most consumers. I have become acutely aware of how the world of meat-eaters is divided into two very distinct camps - those who love to know where it is coming from and want to know lots about its provenance (and thus have no qualms about their carnivore-ness decision). Then there are those who squirm if you make any reference to the fact that the lovely sausages they are buying came from a pig. I thought that people would like to know we keep happy free-range pigs which are in contact with the sun, the earth and the gaze of a farmer who enjoys their antics.

The squeamish reaction of those buying meat at the mention of the live animal is really starting to bug me as it indicates how distant people have become from food production. We buy cartoon shaped chicken or fluorescent pink sausages in the supermarket and never think that it came from a real live animal. We are divorced from our meat, no longer recognizing it as food in its original form; we pay others to kill for us so that we can retain the luxury of detachment. Pigs, cows and sheep are now pork, beef and mutton, words that no longer signify the living animal, but familiar, neatly portioned slabs of food in clean styro-foam packages.

We have successfully forgotten on a polite cultural level that these foods were ever attached to living animals. Accepting and acknowledging that you take life when you eat meat is, I believe, healthier and more ethical than trying to hide your head in the sand and live in denial of the consequences of your dietary habits. Making an informed choice about meat involves a moral honesty in a very relativist world.

However, using animals to produce meat doesn’t mean treating the animals as mere products in the making. For example, Pigs are very smart creatures (remember "Animal Farm") and it’s hard not to be entertained by their antics. I do resist sentimentality though when I see them on the farm (my partner takes this to its extreme by admiring in fond tones the development of their hams). I take the view that good husbandry need not exclude the possibility of playtime. On one of those fiery hot days last May, we hosed them down and they loved it, jumping among the jets of water like they were moshing at a rock concert. They then rolled around in the mud in a fashion that would make any hard-core outdoor concert goer proud. I guess some might take the view that it is easier to be responsible for ending the life of an animal if it is a dull, confined and miserable one, than if it is a fulfilled, free and natural one. I don’t think so.

Several years ago, the English Philosopher John Berger wrote a wonderful essay, ''Why Look at Animals?'' in which he suggested that the loss of everyday contact between ourselves and animals -- and specifically the loss of eye contact -- has left us deeply confused about the terms of our relationship to other species. That eye contact, always slightly uncanny, had provided a vivid daily reminder that animals were at once crucially like and unlike us; in their eyes we glimpsed something unmistakably familiar (pain, fear, tenderness) and something irretrievably alien. Upon this paradox people built a relationship in which they felt they could both honour and eat animals without looking away. But that accommodation has pretty much broken down; nowadays, it seems, we either look away and continue to eat meat reluctantly or become vegetarians.

Ideally, you should eat meat with a clear conscience or become a vegetarian (or vegan, who to their credit see that the dairy industry is the meat industry or at least the beef industry). If you do choose to eat meat, it should be in a meaningful, responsible and aware fashion. At its best meat eating can be a responsible, tasty and informed choice. Meat eating can be at its worst: a shameful expression of greed, indifference and heartlessness. Do you really want the ?3.99 Chicken that seems such great value in the supermarket, when the Chicken has lived a dark, short, miserable life ? Or do you really want the ?5.00 Pork Steak that’s on offer this week, when the pig has been living in a small enclosed space with all of its natural instincts denied ?

We should as consumers be concerned about how animals have been treated, how they lived and what they were fed. The best meat comes from animals which were cared for by someone who respects them and enjoys contact with them. The best way to ensure this is to buy directly from the farmer who produces it, either at farmers markets, farm gate sales or box schemes. Cut out the middle-man – he has no purpose but to keep you ill-informed.

I'm tempted to think that we need a new dietary category, to go with the vegan and lacto vegetarian and piscatorian categories. I don't have a catchy name for it yet (humano-carnivore?), but this is the only sort of meat eating I feel comfortable with these days. I've become the sort of shopper who looks, who likes to know where it all comes from and who asks kinky-sounding questions about how the animals are killed and how long the meat was hung for.

People see very different things when they look into the eyes of a pig or a chicken or a heifer -- a being without a soul, an animal entitled to rights, a link in a food chain, a tasty lunch. But figuring out what we do think, and what we can eat, might begin with the looking. If you accept that there is any moral content at all in the way we treat animals, then you must accept that there is a moral dimension in your dealings with meat. Please think about it, don’t evade it.

 
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